Please read through the information below on crested gecko care. It is very important to understand their basic requirements, as well as the commitment required to providing such, in order to raise a healthy, happy crested gecko.


Crested Gecko Care Sheet

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Average Size: 7 to 9 inches (half of this being its tail)

Life Span: Over 12 years if properly cared for.

Diet : Perhaps the best part of keeping Crested Geckos is that they do not need to be fed live insects. Although I highly recommend a varied diet. They are an omnivorous species, which in the wild eats both insects and rotting fruits and flowers. In captivity they can be fed an excellent powder mix of either Pangea or BPZ Superfoods.

Feeding : If feeding powdered diet mixes solely, most keepers feed every other day, sprinkling the dish with a little mineral/calcium powder. Crickets should be no larger than the width of the geckos’ head or they can choke and die. Feeding crickets at least once or twice a week keeps the geckos active and allows them to use their natural hunting instincts. Plus, it’s fun to watch!!

DO NOT FEED WILD INSECTS OR INSECTS FOUND AROUND THE HOUSE- THEY MAY CARRY DISEASES THAT COULD BE DEADLY TO YOUR PET OR BE COVERED IN PESTICIDES.


Housing : Crested Geckos can be housed in either screen or glass/plexi enclosures. In drier areas it is recommended that glass/plexi cages be used to provide adequate humidity. In areas with higher humidity, screen cages are excellent for providing adequate ventilation. Cages should be permitted to dry out entirely during the day following a heavy nighttime misting. Housing should be chosen to permit this to occur, otherwise problems with molding of the housing from too high of humidity can occur, or the animals can have retained shed due to low humidity.

Cage Size : Since the Crested Gecko is arboreal (lives in the trees) it strongly prefers a cage that is taller than it is long. Young geckos can be kept in small (1-2) gallon) cages or Kritter keepers, until they are 10 grams. Housing that is too large (i.e. 30 gallon tank for a hatchling) should be avoided when keeping very young geckos as they may have trouble finding their food. A single adult gecko can be housed in a 15-20 gallon long aquarium set up on its long end, or in a screen cage measuring 1 foot long x 1 foot deep x 2 feet high. Multiple males should not be housed together; they will fight to the death. Females can be housed together, though some may have personality differences and quarrel. If this occurs they should be permanently separated. Females that take a dislike to each other rarely get over it. Overall, the females seem to enjoy each other’s company, often being found curled up under leaves together. If males and females are housed together, mating and egg-laying is almost guaranteed. Juveniles should be kept in like sized groups as larger ones can and will bully smaller ones, preventing their access to food.

Substrate : Paper towels, newsprint or cage liners are by far the easiest substrate to use, though not very aesthetically pleasing. If males and females are housed together with the intent of breeding they will make finding the eggs much simpler, however. Reptile bark can also provide a nice substrate, though they carry the same risk of ingestion. Never use pine/cedar chips intended for small mammals as they can make your gecko very, very ill.

Habitat : Crested Geckos love some vertical space. Bamboo poles and vertically placed cork flats will make your geckos very happy. They are also especially fond of plants, such as Pothos (which are extremely hardy), both live and fake. The more hiding places that you give gecko the less stressed it will be, and consequently healthier. If you are going for a sterile, easy to clean set up egg crates make excellent, though not pretty, hiding places and maximize surface areas for your geckos. For breeding purposes, I use a very simplified setup but you can make amazing vivarium to house your gecko. However, I do not recommend mixing different species of geckos.

Temperature: Crested Geckos prefer to be kept at room temperature (from 65- 75 degrees F). They experience stress at temperatures over 80 or under 60 degrees.

Lighting : As a nocturnal species your Crested Gecko will likely not come out when bright lights are on. They do need some ambient light in the room at night or they will be disoriented in total darkness. I DO NOT recommend basking lights, moon glow or red nocturnal lights. These lights even in low wattage get way too hot and tend to heat the enclosure to unnatural temperatures. This is important especially for the cooling seasons. You need to allow your geckos to experience natural fluxes in temp with the seasons. As long as you do not let your home dip below 60 or above 80 you are in the safe zone. The best night time lighting I have found for display purposes is mini red Christmas lights just bunched up and set on top of the cage.

Water : Provide a constant supply of clean, fresh, filtered, chlorine-free water in a shallow bowl that cannot be tipped over. Using a clean, new spray bottle, mist your Crested Gecko every other day. They will eagerly lap the water off the surfaces in their enclosure, and the misting will provide much needed humidity. Don’t over mist or you will get a mold problem.

Habitat Maintenance : Change water in the bowl daily, remove feces daily.

Thoroughly clean the tank at least once a week. Use a 10% bleach solution once a month to clean and disinfect the enclosure.


Grooming and Hygiene : Crested geckos require very little actual grooming. Most important is to maintain adequate humidity to prevent retained sheds. In the case of a retained shed the gecko can be carefully soaked in shallow warm water or placed in a small plastic container (with holes punched) with damp paper towels for 30 minutes twice daily until the shed is removed. Always wash your hands before and after touching your gecko or habitat contents to help prevent transmission of Salmonella and other infectious diseases.

Normal Behavior and interaction : Crested Geckos are a nocturnal species that will spend all day sleeping. Once they get up in the evening they are amusing to watch wandering around their cage. They seem to enjoy each other’s company greatly and often sleep together during the day. At night it is not uncommon to hear growls, squeaks, barks and yips as they talk to each other in the same cage, and to geckos in other cages. Crested geckos are normally amenable to handling but every now and then you get a grump. Older juveniles and adults can be handled for as much as they can tolerate which will vary from individual to individual. Some never really settle down, while others are happy to sit on a shoulder or desk for hours at a time. Two warnings should be heeded. First, Crested Geckos love to jump! Animals that are not accustomed to handling should be kept close to the ground until they have lost their desire for flight. Second, if your Crested Gecko drops its tail it will never grow back (unlike many other species). These stumpy Crested geckos suffer no long term negative effects, but never regain their beautiful, prehensile tails. Rough handling and overly stressing your gecko should be avoided if you want your pet to retain its caudal appendage.


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